In the middle of March, I finally got my wish to go on another hike, this time all the way into the snow! The scenery was beautiful, but the trek was long. Still, what’s a hike without a few challenges?
Sunday, March 11, 2018, 5:52pm
I am exhausted! For some reason, after two stressful days I thought it would be good to follow up those experiences with a long hike in the mountains.
I may have a problem.
As I packed up my backpack, laced up my new boots, and headed out the door, I was feeling a little nervous for several reasons:
- I was afraid that the hike would be exhausting.
- I was nervous about being the only American in the group.
- I was a little anxious about being the only girl in the group.
Still, I had faith in my unwavering determination, my physical fitness (thanks to Blogilates and my new habit of running bi-weekly 5ks), and my friend Koli’s ability to plan a good hike with comfortable group dynamics.
I met Koli outside his apartment building, and we were off! We picked up the rest of the group on the way to the hiking trail, and one by one we became a group of five. I felt pretty at-ease since I already knew half of the group, and with introductions made, we started up the mountain.
As the hike began, I focused on the ground in front of me, the strength of my legs, and controlling my breathing. I was surprised to find that even after an hour of hard hiking, my legs weren’t sore at all. I also wasn’t gasping for breath; I was winded, but in a manageable way (like when I go for a run). And as I continued throughout the day, I found that my exercise routine had really paid off! I felt stronger and faster than ever!
My exercise routine head really paid off, and I felt stronger and faster than ever!
I was so focused on my next steps that I didn’t take a lot of time to admire the beautiful scenery around us as we climbed up the mountain. The air was clear and there was hardly a cloud in the sky, which meant that we could see snowy peaks of far away mountains well into the distance. Again, it looked as if Permet was tucked away snugly into a sea of mountains, each range its own individual wave.
Our trail took us through familiar terrain, but we somehow ended up a little lost on our way up the mountain. Unlike our previous Dhembel Mountain trip, we didn’t stop at the cave with the spring, and we veered off more towards the east where the great canyon was located. According to Koli, traders from Permet in ancient times would drive their goods through the canyon and over the mountain to Gjirokaster.
After each hour of hiking, we stopped for a brief rest. And as the time went by, the terrain changed from grassy fields to rough gravel, muddy paths, and later a mix of weeds, rocks, and snow.
Along the way, I thought to myself, “Why do I keep putting myself into these situations? Why couldn’t I just have stayed at home?” Huffing and puffing up the side of the mountain, I longed to be back in my safe, warm bed, but knew that I’d have regretted not coming on the trip.
I thought to myself, “Why do I keep putting myself into these situations?”
As we neared the summit, the air grew chilly and we were able to spot our first patches of snow, which was cold to the touch but soft and packable (the perfect snowman snow). We reached the snow about three and a half hours into the hike, and the excitement of the discovery was enough to give me my second wind. I quickened my pace up the mountain, and we finally reached our halfway point!
While we didn’t go all the way to the very top of the mountain, we made it about halfway between the beginning of the snow and the summit. With the steep grade of the mountain and our less-than-ideal footwear, it was probably for the best that we didn’t make the attempt to reach the top.
Still, one of the guys had broken away from the group and continued up higher into the mountains, so while Koli went to find him, the others and I waited around. I tucked into my many hiking snacks and enjoyed the serenity of the mountainside. We were nearly in the heart of the canyon, which was covered in a patchwork pattern of snow that almost zig-zagged from one mountain peak to the next. I closed my eyes and all I could hear was the wind and distant birdsong.
I closed my eyes and all I could hear was the wind and distant birdsong.
Eventually, we realized that the other guys had already made it down into the canyon, so we packed up our things and went down to join them, slipping and sliding through the snow on our way. When we reached the other two, they were lying down on their jackets in a green meadow dotted with bright yellow flowers. They looked like cats soaking in the sun.
The rest of us were quick to join them, and we spent another ten minutes just relaxing before moving on down the mountain.
As we continued our journey, we came across a snowy hillside perfect for an impromptu adventure. It didn’t even cross my mind to use our slick jackets as a sled until one of the guys laid down in the snow and propelled himself down the side of the mountain. I was shocked and delighted, eager to follow suit!
One by one, we took turns throwing ourselves into the snow. When it was my turn, I sorely underestimated how fast my red, puffy coat would propel me down the steep slope. As soon as I pushed off from the top of the hillside, I let out a cry of excitement and dismay because I realized I was going too fast to control myself. No one had told me to use my feet to slow myself down, so instead I used my hands, which are still in pain from either the icy snow or the rocky ground. My jacket itself was another casualty; it sustained two large holes after the adventure.
Sliding down the hillside was a joyful experience, and it was probably the best part of the day for everyone!
Anyway, I ended up veering off-course and very nearly ramming my head into a large rock, which almost gave Koli a heart attack. But that didn’t stop me from wanting to try it again! Even though it was scary and I had gone too fast, I still had an almost childlike reaction to the experience (forgetting the pain instantly and wanting to experience the thrill again).
We all took at least one more trip down the side of the mountain, and on my second try, I was much more successful. I used my feet to control my speed, and I ended up on the right track. I was unable to really stop myself, so I ended up angling my body to roll over a few times, laughing with delight. It was a joyful experience, and it was probably the best part of the day for everyone.
The hike down was much easier than the path up the mountain, save for one tricky part of the road that we all took way too quickly. At one point, we were inching along a gravel ledge that was probably not very safe, and while I didn’t think I’d slip, I knew that I wasn’t making the smartest decision to take that exact route.
Still, with that said, the return journey was much more relaxed. We wound our way down gravelly mountain roads, along cliffsides, and through the scenic woods surrounding Leuse.
When I arrived back home, I collapsed onto the steps leading up to my front door.
Eventually, we ended our hike on the road from the village, which I knew well. I was beyond ready to be home and off my feet, though surprisingly I wasn’t in any pain (yet). The group split up in a few directions after we arrived in Permet, and Koli and I ended up walking home together. I thanked him once again for the wonderful hike, and truly I don’t think I’ll ever be able to thank him enough for all he’s done for me in the year I’ve been here.
When I arrived back home, I collapsed onto the steps leading up to my front door, just soaking in the beautiful weather and the events of the day. As my shower water heated up, I went upstairs and had a huge meal of byrek me fasule (it was like a double decker byrek!) and vegetable stew.
Now I’m finally, finally clean, my apartment is tided up, and I’m ready to relax. It’s been a fun, tiring day, and overall, I’m beyond glad that I’ve continued to challenge myself and say yes to as many opportunities as I can. Hiking is a wonderful way for me to connect more deeply to the community and the beautiful natural environment here in Permet, and I don’t expect I’ll ever see the day when I turn down a chance to go up into the mountains.
While I was worried about being the only American and the only woman, it really wasn’t a problem at all. The others treated me like a normal person perfectly capable of climbing a mountain. Also, with my advanced Shqip skills, being the only American wasn’t a problem because I could chime into the conversation in Albanian.
Truly, it was a great hike and another lovely experience in the beautiful Permet mountains!
Uprooted Abroad 
Adios Chinese coat. Are all Albanians so outdoorsy?